“It was a pleasant cafe, warm and clean and friendly, and I hung up my old waterproof on the coat rack to dry and put my worn and weathered felt hat on the rack above the bench and ordered a cafe au lait...” These words, from Ernest Hemingway’s ‘A Moveable Feast’, conjure up the cosy familiarity of the coffee house ambience that prevailed in Europe’s cafes in the early 20th century. Hemingway, and a coterie of writers, including Jean Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and Albert Camus, lifted the cafe out of its humble origins and made it into a kind of rendezvous for intellectual persons...
Cafe culture is pretty much the same for most people in countries around the world. Wander into a new town in a strange country and a café is a good place to start exploring; you get a coffee, ask a few questions, and get to know the locals.
The cafe tradition goes back to at least the 15th century, in what was known as Constantinople, and is now Istanbul in Turkey. That’s where the first known coffee-house opened, near the banks of the Bosphorus River. The coffee-house of yesteryears was not very different from those of today- people sat around, and over cups of the hot brew, discussed politics, arts, philosophy and the like, while they played chess or backgammon.
In Europe, the cafe culture varies from country to country, but is essentially the same. It maintains the same common thread of social interaction. The locals gather to enjoy a hot cup of coffee as they chat, read or just watch the world go by. Certainly, cafes are unique places, because they transcend social and economic factors. You could well have a judge sitting at one table and a group of students at the next.
Parisian rendezvous
Parisian cafes are, of course, a European icon. They’re more than just places to sip coffee, and no trip to Paris can be complete without a relaxing, long lounge at a roadside Paris cafe, indulging in the fascinating pastime of simply watching the world go by.
Paris cafes have always served an essential social function in the life of the city. They’ve been around for centuries in one form or another, and are found virtually on every street corner. Paris cafes are a meeting place, a neighbourhood hub, a conversation matrix, a rendezvous spot, a networking source, a place to relax and refuel, the social and political pulse of the city.
The oldest cafe on record, Le Procope, was founded in 1686, 20 years after coffee made its appearance on the scene. Here, you may get a quick snack on the run, but you will sit down and have it properly served to you. The food may not aim to compete with bonafide gourmet restaurants, but as someone once asked, “is there really such a thing as a bad meal in Paris?” Just seek and you will find!
Typical Paris cafes are not “coffee shops”. They generally come with a complete kitchen, which offers a restaurant menu with meals for any time of day, a full bar, and even a wine selection. The coffee may not necessarily always be of gourmet quality, nor have the dizzying variety found in Starbucks around the world. But, unquestionably, a cup of coffee at a cafe in Paris is the cheapest conceivable way of occupying a prime spot for a couple of hours.
Let’s have a tour of the most famous of Parisien cafes:
Les Deux Magots is easily the most famous Parisien café. Located in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area of Paris, it was once the rendez vous of the literary and intellectual élite of the city. It even featured in the 1973 film The Mother and the Whore. Today, however, the intellectual élite take their coffee elsewhere, and the establishment is more frequented by Americans, who are ready to pay for sentimental reasons. The café's name comes from the two wooden statues of Chinese commercial agents (magots) which adorn one of the pillars.
Like its celebrated rival Les Deux Magots, Café de Flore at 172, Boulevard Saint-Germain has its own claim to fame, with such greats as Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and Camus holding regular meetings here.
Café de la Paix at 12, Boulevard des Capucines is a classic Parisian cafe and a throwback from a time of high-society elegance. Today’s world marches to a different tune, so although Café de la Paix no longer carries the sceptre it once did, it is still a prominent spot, chiefly owing to its proximity to the landmark Opera Garnier. Both were, in fact, designed by the same architect, Charles Garnier.
Cafe a Brasileira is reputably Lisbon's most famous cafe. It opened in 1905 and was known for the intellectuals who used to stop by on a daily basis. The interior still has its fabulous art nouveau decor for locals and tourists alike, to enjoy. There is also a terrace at the front, making it the perfect spot to lounge when the weather is fine.
In 1900, the 16-year-old Pablo Picasso exhibited his art for the first time at Café Els Quatre Gats (Cafe of The Four Cats) in Barcelona. At that time, the walls of this café were covered with paintings, with the owner trying to emulate Montmartre. After closing down in 1936, the café reopened in the 1970s, with regular literary meetings being held there since 1995.
As Burkeman, owner of Copper Grill, London, who has managed the cafe for 30 years, puts it, “People like coming here because they aren't overawed. No one interferes. They get on with it. It's a good mix of workers and city boys. This is the cheapest office space in London--people do so much business here...”
The ‘Addas’ of India
An outdoor cafe in India is a great place for sampling food and drink, and watching the most colourful people in the world. From cafes located in towering city escapes and shopping malls to your roadside dhabas and elite book cafes, the cafes of India come in various forms.
In fact, India has its own variety in the India Coffee House. The first Indian Coffee House was opened in New Delhi on October 27, 1957. Today, there are nearly 400 coffee houses all over India.
Coffee House, Kolkata
The most famous Coffee House branch in Kolkata is the one at the College Street. Situated opposite Presidency College, Kolkata, it has been a regular hangout for students. Personalities like Rabindranath Tagore and Subhas Chandra Bose were frequent visitors to the place, which became a meeting place for poets, artistes, literati and people from the world of art and culture. The prestige of the Coffee House increased with regular visitors such as Satyajit Ray, Manna Dey, Amartya Sen, Mrinal Sen, Aparna Sen and Sunil Gangopadhyay.
Prithvi Cafe, Mumbai
Located adjacent to the Prithvi Theatre, this cosy café provides a serene escape from the bustle of the city that never sleeps, in an “arty” atmosphere that is as relaxing as it is entertaining. This haunt of artists, actors and the like is known for its unique Irish coffee blends as well as its tasty selection of sandwiches, kebabs, wraps and pastries.
Bar Latino, Goa
One of a series of multiple outdoor establishments, this outdoor cafe and bar hosts live music every night along the pristine shores of Vainguinim Beach along the Arabian Sea. The pizzas and burgers here are the best recommended among the menu choices.
Barista Creme, Hyderabad
Located in the scenic Jubilee Hills, this 170-seat perch of an outdoor cafe serves up organic herbal teas, Venetian espressos and fusion fruit drinks as well as delectable grilled selections from Indian and international cuisine. Some devilish dessert options include nutty carrot cake and chocolate strawberries and cream.
Bar-be-que Cafe, Manali
Situated in the lawns looking out at the picturesque mountains of Himachal Pradesh, Bar-be-que, part of the Ambassador Resort in Manali, offers stunning views of forested hills and snow-capped peaks. Delectable kebabs (vegetarian and non-veg) of many varieties are the specialty of this outdoor cafe and are best washed down with local brews or sodas on tap.
Seva Cafe, Ahmedabad
One of India’s most unique outdoor cafes – there are no prices listed on the menu so you pay in accordance to the dictates of your palate – Seva Cafe is situated in the bustling downtown area of CG Road to help perpetuate generosity and kindness, with its profits going to charity. This is an all-vegetarian hangout, offering everything from coffee and tea to full-fledged, fancy meals such as ratatouille, aromatic rice and roasted peppers in vinaigrette. The dessert of choice is fried bananas with creamy chocolate sauce, with a cup of tea. Every table has a view of the night sky and it’s the perfect place to sit back and take in the energy of the city for a good cause.
